LUXE Serendipity magazine

By Donna Richardson

Cradling a glass of pale gold wine on the fertile, smoking slopes of Mount Etna, I felt suspended between earth and sky – between the volcano’s quiet rumble beneath my feet and the glittering Ionian Sea far below. The wine shimmered in the Sicilian light, catching the sun like molten gold, and as I raised the glass, the scent of minerality, stone, citrus, and something faintly smoky, met the warm Mediterranean air. It was a moment of perfect anticipation, one I knew I’d carry long after the taste had faded.

This was no ordinary day trip. I was ashore from the Star Flyer, one of Star Clippers’ magnificent four-masted sailing ships – vessels that look plucked from a 19th-century maritime painting but glide across the Mediterranean with modern ease. The journey from the sun-warmed coves of southern Italy, each port a new chapter in a quietly luxurious odyssey. But it was the promise of Sicily – and the volcanic majesty of Etna – that felt the most magical.

Just hours earlier, I had been in Taormina – that impossibly picturesque town cascading down the cliffs of eastern Sicily. We wandered through the grand corridors of the San Domenico Palace, now part of Four Seasons and made world-famous by The White Lotus. The lemon-scented courtyards and sea views shimmered with cinematic glamour; it wasn’t hard to imagine Jennifer Coolidge sweeping through in oversized sunglasses and existential despair. From there, we wound inland through sunlit villages where life unfolds at a leisurely Sicilian rhythm. Men sipped espresso under striped awnings, laundry fluttered between honey-coloured walls, and every turn in the road seemed to echo scenes from The Godfather.

Our destination was Gambino Vini, one of the most celebrated wineries on Etna’s eastern slopes, perched 900 meters above sea level. The road climbed steadily, curling around switchbacks edged by wild thyme and blackened lava rock. As we ascended, the air grew cooler, tinged with sea salt and the faint scent of earth after rain.

Sicily, with its fierce sun and maritime winds, has always been blessed with perfect conditions for wine. But on Etna, nature performs at a higher intensity. The volcanic soil, rich in basalt, ash, and ancient minerals, breathes an uncommon vitality into the vines. The grapes that thrive here are not just cultivated but tested by fire. Native varieties like Grillo and Catarratto yield crisp, saline whites with notes of lemon peel and almond blossom, while Nero d’Avola offers deep, elegant reds laced with dark cherry, spice, and volcanic smoke. The sulphur in the soil adds something ineffable – an echo of the mountain itself. Even the sulphur in the soil lends an edge – a whisper of fire in every glass.

From the terrace at Gambino, rows of vines unfurl toward the Ionian coast. Above, Etna’s summit rises, snow-capped and softly fuming. The estate’s ochre stone buildings seem to merge with the earth, as if anchoring themselves against time.

We were met by Nico, the resident sommelier who was charming, eloquent, and clearly in love with his craft. He led us through the vineyards, explaining how a few meters’ change in altitude alters a grape’s character entirely. Inside the cool cellar, oak barrels lined the walls like silent sentinels. The scent was intoxicating – wood, fruit, and a hint of yeast.

From the terrace at Gambino, the view is breathtaking. Rows of vines unfurl in precise green ribbons that slope gently toward the sea, while above, Etna’s snow-dusted summit looms – beautiful and faintly menacing, sending up a casual puff of smoke as if to remind everyone of its power. The winery’s ochre stone buildings seem to grow from the land itself, timeless and unhurried. It is hard to believe that just over a century these lands were covered in lava.

History entwined in the vines of Etna

The Gambino family story is as compelling as the view. Founded in 1978 by Maria Gambino and her father Vittorio, the winery was born from a passion for reviving abandoned land. Today, Maria’s son Francesco Raciti Gambino and his siblings, Filadelfo and Mariagrazia, carry on the legacy. “Our parents didn’t plan to start a vineyard,” Francesco told me. “They simply believed in the land – they brought it back to life, vine by vine.”

The tasting began under a canopy of olive trees overlooking the vineyard. Nico poured the first white – crisp, mineral-rich, and kissed by sea air, alongside pecorino drizzled with local honey. Then came a pale rosé, elegant and floral, followed by two reds: one supple, the other bold and smoky, perfectly paired with Sicilian sausages and sun-dried tomatoes glistening in olive oil.

At my table sat an American mother and daughter from Etna, California – a coincidence that sparked laughter and easy conversation. Around us, the air buzzed with the quiet joy of travelers discovering something real, something rooted. As the afternoon faded, the mountain exhaled a slow, silvery plume into the lavender sky.

Before we left, Nico convinced me to buy a bottle of the final red. “It travels well,” he said with a wink. I believed him – though what I really wanted to preserve wasn’t just the wine, but the feeling: that rare, fleeting harmony of sea and soil, luxury and simplicity, life and lava which made me feel alive.

Getting there and How to Do it

Sailing with Star Clippers:
For a journey that feels both cinematic and deeply personal, Star Clippers offers small-ship luxury unlike any other. The Star Flyer, a four-masted sailing ship carrying just 166 guests, sails through the Mediterranean each summer on routes connecting Malta, Sicily, and the Amalfi Coast. Guests can help raise the sails, swim off secluded beaches, or sip rum punch under the stars. The line’s hallmark is intimacy — no crowds, no schedules, just wind and wonder.

On the Sicily itinerary, the ship anchors off Messina, allowing guests to tender ashore for exclusive excursions. We head to Taormina, including the Mount Etna & Gambino Vini wine experience. The excursion, available directly through Star Clippers, includes transportation, a guided tour of the vineyard, and a full wine tasting paired with local cuisine — the perfect blend of sea adventure and land discovery.

Where to Stay (If You’re Not Sailing):
If you’re travelling independently, base yourself in Taormina, Sicily’s most glamorous perch. The San Domenico Palace, A Four Seasons Hotel, offers a heady mix of monastic calm and cinematic grandeur. For something boutique, Hotel Villa Carlotta and Belmond Grand Hotel Timeo both offer terraces that seem to hover above the Ionian Sea.

Getting There:
Fly into Catania–Fontanarossa Airport (CTA) — about an hour from Taormina — and rent a car to explore at your own pace. The drive from Taormina to Gambino Vini takes around 90 minutes and winds through some of the most scenic countryside in Sicily. For those arriving by ship, shore excursions handle all transportation directly from the tender pier in Giardini Naxos.

The Experience:
Book your tasting through Gambino Vini’s official website or through your cruise line in advance, particularly during high season. Their Wine & Food Experience includes a guided vineyard tour, tasting of several wines, and a leisurely multi-course Sicilian lunch overlooking the vines. Allow two to three hours to fully savour it.

When to Go:
Spring (April–June) and autumn (September–November) offer the best balance of mild weather and quiet roads. Visit in late September if you want to witness the harvest — an unforgettable spectacle of color and tradition.

Insider Tip:
After your tasting, linger on the terrace with a final espresso or limoncello. The afternoon light on Etna’s slopes is otherworldly – a golden haze that makes even the simplest moment feel eternal. If returning by road, detour through the medieval village of Castiglione di Sicilia for a final glimpse of rural life and then back to Messina before the descent back to the sea – and the gentle sway of the Star Flyer waiting offshore.