LUXE Serendipity magazine

By Donna Richardson

As a little girl, I dreamed of being a princess and living in a castle.

Now, in a small but rather wonderful way, those childhood dreams have come true.

I am sitting at a writing desk overlooking Alnwick Castle, watching the first light of morning spread across its ancient stone walls. Beyond the window stands the ancestral home of the Duke and Duchess of Northumberland – a castle steeped in almost a thousand years of history and instantly recognisable to Harry Potter fans.

It is an extraordinary sight to wake up to.

And for our own little princess, it could hardly be more perfect.

We had arrived in Alnwick after a day exploring nearby Bamburgh Castle, following the dramatic Northumberland coastline before turning inland towards this handsome market town. Our destination was Bailiffgate Hotel, one of Alnwick’s newest luxury hotels and, unusually, one with a history almost as fascinating as the castle that stands practically on its doorstep.

There is something wonderfully romantic about arriving at a hotel with such a strong sense of place.

Bailiffgate is not a newly constructed luxury retreat designed to look historic. Its history is built into its very walls.

A House with a Story

Steeped in history, Bailiffgate Hotel occupies the former Duke of Northumberland’s Commissioner’s House, a grand Georgian building dating from 1797, when it was built for James Dormer, the Duke’s Commissioner.

Surviving correspondence from the Duke details the progress of the construction, including plans for its interior decoration.

The building’s life, however, was to become considerably more varied.

By the nineteenth century, it had passed into other hands before becoming associated with the Duchess’s School, originally founded by Duchess Julia in 1888. In 1903, the school gained official recognition as a County Secondary School, with Bailiffgate House remaining part of the school until 2016.

It is difficult to imagine the building in its former guise when you arrive today.

Once a place where girls were taught sewing, knitting, darning and other domestic skills, preparing them for lives that were expected to revolve around service, marriage and motherhood, it has now been transformed into a sophisticated five-star-standard hotel.

How times change.

And yet Bailiffgate has chosen not to forget its past.

The hotel pays tribute to its history in subtle ways. In the old house, the private dining room, Mrs Bowmaker’s Room, takes its name from the school’s famously austere first headmistress, while the Commissioner’s Bar recalls the building’s earlier life as the Duke’s Commissioner’s residence.

It is an elegant way of acknowledging the generations who came before.

Owned by Northumberland Estates, Bailiffgate combines Georgian heritage with contemporary sophistication. Work on the hotel began in 2021, and the finished property now comprises 48 individually designed rooms, including 14 luxury suites, spread across the original Georgian structure and a striking modern five-storey extension.

The transformation was led by MawsonKerr Architects and interior designers Room 33. The result is a hotel that feels both historic and distinctly contemporary.

First Impressions

The Georgian house forms the entrance and gateway into the hotel, where guests are greeted by a concierge and given the sort of welcome you would expect from a five-star property.

Inside, the design immediately makes an impression.

A bold, jewel-like colour palette complements the Georgian architecture, while dark floral wallpaper provides a dramatic backdrop to the grand staircase and striking Venetian windows.

And then there is the chandelier.

An extraordinary bespoke eight-metre-drop chandelier by Buster + Punch takes centre stage, adding a sense of theatre to the entrance.

It is glamorous, but it does not feel out of place.

Instead, the contemporary design seems to have been carefully considered to complement the building’s history rather than compete with it.

That balance continues throughout the hotel.

From inside, guests can enjoy sweeping views of Alnwick Castle, The Pastures and the tranquil courtyard gardens. The Northumberland coast is also only a short drive away, making Bailiffgate an ideal base for exploring one of England’s most picturesque and historically rich regions.

Nicola Gartland, Director and founder of Room 33, explains that the surrounding landscape was an important influence on the interiors.

“The hotel is surrounded by greenery and natural materials, so of course this was a key influence in the look and feel of the design. Green became a ribbon of colour that passes through the entire scheme in different tones and textures. We also chose to use natural materials such as oak and wool for the floor and furniture finishes.”

That connection with nature is particularly apparent in the Garden Room.

The Garden Room

A whimsical space linking the old and new buildings, the Garden Room is the perfect setting for afternoon tea.

Its rich two-tone green colour palette, velvet leafy fabrics and large-scale rattan lights create a room that feels playful, elegant and wonderfully inviting.

After a morning spent exploring castles and attempting to master broomstick flying, it is exactly the sort of place where you want to sit down and slow the pace.

For those who prefer to dine outdoors, the courtyard garden provides an alfresco alternative.

There is something particularly appealing about sitting outside in the Northumberland air with nowhere else to be.

Inside, the Motte & Bailey restaurant, led by Executive Head Chef Paul Blakey, serves modern British cuisine inspired by local ingredients.

The food has a pleasing sense of provenance.

Smoked salmon and kippers from nearby Craster, Lindisfarne oysters, locally sourced beef, artisan cheeses and chutneys bring the surrounding landscape to the table..

The Hollywell Suite

Our room, Hollywell, was an exquisite suite, expansive enough for all three of us to settle in without ever feeling as though we were simply sharing a hotel room.

There were two generous double beds, a spacious sitting area and a large, beautifully appointed bathroom with twin showers and his-and-hers sinks.

But it was the view that captured me.

A writing desk sat beside the window, perfectly positioned to overlook Alnwick Castle.

It was the kind of desk that makes you want to sit down and write — even if you had nowhere particular to be and nothing that urgently needed saying.

I could have happily spent hours there.

The bathroom was equally tempting.

A sleek, modern Lusso bathtub sat waiting, generously proportioned and practically inviting me to abandon the day’s plans. I ran a bath, reached for the Jo Loves amenities and surrendered to a little post-castle luxury. Back in the shared room Netflix was already providing its own form of entertainment. Our daughter downloaded Horrible Histories, which seemed wonderfully apt given that we were sleeping right next to one of England’s great medieval castles.

It was one of those small family moments that made the suite feel less like a hotel room and more like our own little corner of Alnwick.

For the adults, there was indulgence: coffee, snacks and wine.

For our daughter, there was history, adventure and television.

As we sipped our Earl Grey and tucked into olives and peanuts, while our daughter enjoyed the exquisite chocolates and cookies, everyone, it seemed, was happy.

This is just one of 48 sumptious rooms, each one unique and opulent.

A Castle at the Window

The real luxury at Bailiffgate, however, is its location.

Alnwick Castle rises almost directly opposite, its towers and medieval walls dominating the skyline.

It is the sort of view that makes you pause every time you pass the window.

For centuries, the castle has been at the heart of Northumberland’s story and has been associated with the Percy family for more than 700 years.

The Percys rose to power after the Norman Conquest of 1066 and came to Northumberland in 1292, when Henry de Percy purchased Alnwick Castle.

The castle has passed through generations of the family, continuing an extraordinary connection with Northumberland that reaches into the present day.

The current Duke and Duchess of Northumberland, Ralph and Jane Percy, moved into the castle in the mid-1990s. Today, Alnwick Castle remains the family seat of Ralph Percy, the 12th Duke of Northumberland, and his wife Jane, Duchess of Northumberland, who make the castle their home during the summer months.

For visitors of a certain age, however, Alnwick Castle has another claim to fame.

Harry Potter

The castle provided the magical backdrop for scenes from the films, introducing its towers, courtyards and grounds to millions of viewers around the world.

For our daughter, the combination of castles, history and Harry Potter was irresistible.

For me, there was something rather lovely about seeing the same castle through two generations of eyes: mine, remembering childhood fairytales, and hers, discovering her own.

Broomsticks, Quidditch and a Little Movie Magic

Our visit to Alnwick Castle was not going to be purely about history.

We had come with a rather more magical mission: to try our hand at broomstick riding, just as the young witches and wizards had done in the Harry Potter films.

Standing in the castle grounds with a broomstick in hand, it was remarkably easy to forget that we were visitors rather than students at Hogwarts.

Our daughter embraced the experience wholeheartedly, throwing herself into the lesson with the sort of enthusiasm only a child can summon when presented with the opportunity to fly.

Then came Quidditch.

For a few wonderfully chaotic moments, the castle grounds became our own little Hogwarts pitch.

There was laughter, competition and more than a little determination to score.

It was the perfect way to experience Alnwick — not simply as a historic fortress, but as the place where some of the most recognisable scenes from the wizarding world were brought to life.

For our daughter, the magic was real.

And watching her, I couldn’t help but feel that little girl inside me — the one who had always dreamed of castles, princesses and faraway worlds — was having rather a wonderful day too.

Where History Was Written in Blood

It is easy, sitting in modern-day Alnwick, to forget how turbulent this landscape once was.

The history of the castle reaches back into the Norman period and is deeply intertwined with the long and often violent relationship between England and Scotland.

In 1093, Malcolm III of Scotland — Malcolm Canmore, remembered as the king who defeated Macbeth — was killed close to Alnwick, across the River Aln.

Almost a century later, in 1174, another Scottish king, William the Lion, was captured near the castle.

Alnwick subsequently became one of the great strongholds of the north.

During the Wars of the Roses, the castle was caught up in the struggle between York and Lancaster and was besieged repeatedly, changing hands several times during the conflict of the 1460s.

The history is dramatic; the present-day setting is anything but.

Today, the River Aln winds peacefully through the landscape, the town bustles below the castle and visitors arrive to explore rather than conquer.

Yet the past is never far away.

That is part of Alnwick’s appeal.

A Castle Filled with Art

Throughout the generations, members of the Percy family have collected remarkable works of art, including paintings by Raphael and Claude, alongside the Camuccini collection and Venetian paintings.

The collection is priceless, with many of the antique paintings dating from the Prince Regent era.

We explored the Guard Chamber, the Ante Library and the Library, with its coffered ceiling made by Thomas Robertson.

Then came the Saloon, influenced by Italian style and decorated by Alessandro Mantovani, who also worked on the Vatican Palace.

The Drawing Room is perhaps the most sumptuous room of all, designed by Mantovani.

The Great Hall and Dining Room are grander still and were the setting for many important meals in the castle.

The Breakfast Room formed part of the restoration of the castle and was designed by Eustace Balfour in a Queen Anne style.

Then there is the China Gallery, originally designed by Salvin in a European style.

The Chapel and Constables Tower house further exhibitions, while in the Postern Tower is the Antiquities Museum.

In the Coach House, there is a display of Percy livery, transported by the Third Duke when he served as King George IV’s personal representative at the coronation of Charles X in France in 1825.

And then there are the Alnwick Gardens, installed by Elizabeth Seymour and her husband in the mid-eighteenth century.

It is an extraordinary accumulation of history, art, architecture and family stories — all contained within and around one remarkable castle.

Breakfast at Bailiffgate

After a blissfully peaceful night’s sleep in the wonderfully soft bed, I did an hour of writing overlooking the ramparts of the ancient castle.

The statues I had seen in so many Harry Potter films seemed to stand guard beyond the window, while rain trickled down the glass.

I felt content.

There is something magical about having time to write while looking at a view that would normally be the reason for getting out and exploring.

Eventually, however, hunger won.

We made our way downstairs for breakfast, and I settled in with a hearty Full English – exactly the sort of indulgent breakfast: Cumberland sausages, beans, eggs, mushrooms and bacon- and set ourselves up for a day exploring Northumberland.

There is something wonderfully reassuring about a proper breakfast before a day of sightseeing: good coffee, a generous plate and the anticipation of whatever lies beyond the hotel doors.

Afternoon Tea

Later that afternoon, we returned to Bailiffgate for one of the great pleasures of a country-house escape: afternoon tea.

After a morning of castles and broomsticks, it was a welcome excuse to slow the pace and settle into the elegant surroundings of the hotel.

The arrival of the tiered stand brought an immediate sense of occasion, with delicate sandwiches, freshly baked scones and an assortment of sweet treats, accompanied by a pot of perfectly brewed tea.

For our little princess, it was almost as exciting as the castle itself.

For me, it was the perfect pause in the day — a chance to sit, indulge and savour the feeling that, just for an afternoon, we were living our own little fairytale.

There is something wonderfully British about afternoon tea, and at Bailiffgate it felt particularly fitting: a modern ritual enjoyed within a building that has spent centuries at the heart of Alnwick’s story.

The Commissioner’s Bar

As evening approaches, the Commissioner’s Bar becomes the natural place to retreat.

Set within the original house, its cosy fireplace provides the perfect backdrop for cocktails, wines, local beers and spirits.

It is somewhere to unwind after a day spent walking, sightseeing and exploring – perhaps with a pre-dinner drink or a quiet nightcap.

The bar also provides another subtle reminder of the building’s history.

Its name pays homage to the house’s former life as the Duke’s Commissioner’s residence, adding another layer to the experience without ever feeling overly formal.

A Hotel Rooted in Its Community

Bailiffgate is intended to be more than simply a place for visitors to sleep.

As a new cornerstone of Alnwick’s hospitality offering, the hotel is expected to play an important role in supporting and enhancing the local tourism economy.

Its prime location beside one of the UK’s most visited castles, together with its commitment to year-round service, is designed to attract both domestic and international visitors seeking a high-end Northumberland experience.

The hotel has already created 70 permanent jobs, with recruitment continuing across a range of positions.

During construction, more than 250 local workers and over 200 weeks of apprenticeships contributed to bringing the landmark project to life.

There is also an emphasis on sourcing local produce and collaborating with nearby attractions and businesses, with the aim of encouraging visitors to stay longer and explore more of Alnwick and the surrounding region.

That sense of welcome extends beyond the traditional luxury-hotel guest.

Nicola Gartland described the intention as being to make people feel welcome at Bailiffgate whether they are “out walking their dog looking for a beer and Sunday lunch” or “on the hunt for a more luxurious experience.”

It is a lovely philosophy.

Because for all its five-star touches, Bailiffgate does not feel as though it is trying to keep the outside world at arm’s length.

You can come for the castle. You can come for afternoon tea. You can come with the children – and dog. You can come for a Sunday lunch, a drink beside the fire or a romantic escape.

And, of course, you can come for the luxury.

Exploring Northumberland

One of the pleasures of staying at Bailiffgate is the ease with which Alnwick and the surrounding countryside can be explored.

The town itself rewards wandering, with its historic streets, independent shops and lively market-town character.

And beyond it lies the extraordinary Northumberland landscape.

Bamburgh is within easy reach, its magnificent castle rising dramatically above the beach.

The coastline stretches away into the distance, while inland there are country walks, villages and historic houses to discover.

It is the kind of destination where a weekend can easily become a week.

One day might be spent exploring castles, another walking along the coast, and another simply lingering over lunch or afternoon tea.

The latter, I suspect, is an increasingly underrated form of luxury.

A Fairytale with a Modern Ending

There are hotels that are simply somewhere to sleep.

Then there are hotels that become part of the memory of a journey.

Bailiffgate belongs firmly in the second category.

Its appeal lies in the layers: the Georgian house, the Duke’s Commissioner, the schoolgirls who once passed through its doors, the modern restoration, the thoughtful interiors, the food and, above all, that extraordinary view.

But for me, it was the feeling of the place that stayed with me.

As I sat at my writing desk in the early morning, looking across at Alnwick Castle, the town was still quiet.

The first light was beginning to touch the ancient stone.

For a moment, it was easy to forget the centuries between then and now.

I thought about the little girl who once dreamed of being a princess.

And then I looked at my own daughter, discovering castles and history for herself, flying broomsticks, attempting Quidditch and downloading Horrible Histories in a luxury suite opposite one of England’s most famous fortresses.

Perhaps we never really grow out of fairytales.

Perhaps we simply find more sophisticated ways of living them.

I may not have grown up to live in a castle.

But waking up at Bailiffgate, with Alnwick Castle framed in my window, felt like a rather beautiful compromise.

For our daughter, it was a weekend of castles, broomsticks, Quidditch and chocolate.

For me, it was something more.

It was a chance to revisit the little girl who once dreamed of princesses and castles — and to see that dream reflected in the eyes of my own child.

Perhaps that is the real magic of travel.

Not simply discovering somewhere new, but discovering a little of yourself again.

Bailiffgate Hotel, Alnwick – where history, luxury and a little bit of magic.