By Donna Richardson
It is not often one gets to eat in the favourite restaurant of the late Coco Chanel and
Princess Diana. While there, one will surely pause while lifting their silver spoon to
taste a lobster bisque to think that one day they’ll tell the grandchildren about their
time here. The location is close to theatreland, and all the shops yet tucked away so
that VIPs can enjoy the ultimate privacy. This is L’Escargot in Soho.
Housed in a charming three-storey Edwardian townhouse, this restaurant feels wonderfully homely while embodying the eccentric glamour of one of London’s most stylish dining destinations. Its elegant and classic dining room features grand chandeliers and an Art Deco atmosphere that is both intimate and distinctly characterful.
The moment you walk in, it feels like visiting a rich person’s home. I was seated in the front room by the window, where many famous people have sat, with a view of the chandelier. The Library Room upstairs is adorned with photographs of The Beatles and Mick Jagger, alongside vibrant works by Picasso and Matisse. On the top floor, the bar and private dining rooms continue the Art Deco theme, with elegant interiors and a magnificent chandelier providing a striking centrepiece.
The restaurant has an intimate, welcoming feel and attracts a loyal following of returning guests and romantic couples. With Rat Pack music playing softly in the background, the combination of art, nostalgia and understated glamour creates an atmosphere made for lingering over dinner.
L’Escargot is London’s oldest French restaurant and is in its historic French quarter.
Originally called Le Bienvenue, the restaurant made a name for itself as the only
place to enjoy the French delicacy of snails which inspired its change of name to
L’Escargot when it relocated in 1927 to its current Greek Street home. Since then,
the famous French restaurant has hosted Coco Chanel, Elton John, Shirley Bassey, Petula Clark, HRH Princess Margaret, Diana and the Krays twins. L’Escargot has such a fabled history that it has become somewhat of an institution. Nowadays it is owned by Brian Clivaz of the Art Club and a group of his friends.
Ambience
The restaurant is lively during lunchtime and even more popular in the evening when you will need to book a table in advance. And you never know when you might spot a celebrity of two. Those seeking privacy can opt to dine in the lavish private dining room upstairs. The grand table is framed by a giant mirror and there is an armchair in the corner of the room and a statue of dogs. Fitting, since the restaurant’s owner Brian Clivaz has a dog called Dorris, who is a regular visitor to the venue. Upstairs is another private dining space and a bar and private members club. The walls are painted in deep colours and decorated in art, there is a Matisse snail cut out and Beryl Cook prints.
The food
L’Escargot has seen many renowned chefs, including Marco Pierre White, and is currently led by James Tyrrell, who previously directed the culinary team at Claridge’s. The restaurant is famous for its garlic butter snails, which are served with special tongs, and also offers a Roquefort pie option. For a less adventurous choice, the lobster bisque is a hearty, classic dish, paired with Côtes-du-Rhône, ‘Château Beauchêne’ 2021.
The final piece that completes the experience is the service which is is impeccable.
You’ll find you meal to be , not too unhurried and you can enjoy a relaxed afternoon.
In France, lunchtime is celebrated, and it is at L’Escargot. Expect a two-hour
experience as you are welcomed like an old friend whether it is your first visit or your
hundredth.
France has a reputation for fine food and wine. Therefore, at the fanciest French
restaurant in town, you can expect the very best of the best. A visit to L’Escargot is
like watching a symphony. All the ingredients combine with finesse to create the
most incredible experiences which entertains and nourishes you as well as inspires
with its long legacy of influential patrons. L’Escargot is aspirational and truly
epitomises the good life, la belle vie, once you taste this, you feel ravenous for more.
This is a venue I will return one day to celebrate an important milestone, just like the
couple who were celebrating their diamond anniversary. L’Escargot is a sparkling
gem in London’s plethora of restaurants which you simply have to visit once in your
life if not more.
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