Liquid Sunshine at Golden Rock Inn, Nevis

By Donna Richardson

There’s a saying in Nevis – Rush Slowly and in this day and age sometimes a digital detox is just what you need. If you’re yearning for a vibrant Caribbean escape, the enchanting island of Nevis awaits you. Nestled amidst the lush tropical landscape, the Golden Rock Inn presents a charming sanctuary with only 11 exquisite bedrooms. Spread over 40 acres of vibrant greenery, high in the Gingerland Hills, this boutique hotel offers an idyllic retreat where you can disconnect from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. The inn is beautifully situated in the serene Gingerland Hills, surrounded by nature’s whispers. The journey to this hidden gem is an adventure in itselfbegin with a scenic flight into St. Kitts, followed by a leisurely taxi ride to Reggae Beach Dock. There, you’ll board a water taxi that will gracefully glide you across the sparkling waters of the Atlantic Ocean, leading you to the captivating shores of Nevis.

A cocktail awaits

Ideal for couples or solos alike, the retreat has just 11 rooms and is a boutique hotel nestled in the Gingerland Hills. The journey there is an adventure in itself. Fly into St. Kitts and take a taxi to Reggae Beach Dock where you will meet a water taxi that will whisk you across the channel on the Wild Atlantic Ocean to Nevis.

In just 12 minutes, you will arrive at Oualie Beach dock. From there, a taxi will take you to Golden Rock Inn, ascending the Gingerland Hills and navigating through a jungle path. Upon your arrival, friendly staff will greet you at the reception and offer you a glass of the inn’s famous rum punch.. At the time a rainbow appeared across the sky – it was a magical moment.

A couple enjoying a romantic meal – KC Jeffers

The gardens are designed by Miami-based designer Raymond Jungles and Keith, the head gardener, is happy to show you some of the hundreds of species of plants that thrive here, including 60 species of palms and an impressive collection of cycads, seed plants bearing a resemblance to palms and ferns that date back approximately 280 million years.

A striking feature that struts out of the jungle foliage is a pavilion designed by Edward Tuttle. This is a striking centrepiece at the helm of an oversized freshwater swimming pool and alfresco dining area.

Artistic chairs surround the rock pools where kingfishers like to play

Settle down beside the peaceful spring-fed pools surrounded by lush nature. Listen to the chatter of monkeys and spot hummingbirds flitting through the trees. You might even encounter a friendly donkey on your walk. Golden Rock Inn is an ideal spot to relax and benefit from the surrounding environment.

The Pavilion was one of my favourite places to sit

At Golden Rock, a captivating blend of sights and sounds envelops you. The earthy musk that wafts through the air after a refreshing rain creates an intoxicating atmosphere, while the gentle rustling of palm fronds adds a soothing backdrop. Vibrant birds fill the treetops with their cheerful chirps, and as night approaches, the melodious chorus of tree frogs (Antilles coqui) rises to a joyful crescendo. Wander through meandering paths shaded by a lush, green canopy, where breathtaking views of Montserrat and Redondo stretch before your eyes, alongside the distant silhouette of Antigua. As you gaze toward the dormant volcano of Mount Nevis, the setting sun bathes the landscape in a warm, golden glow, inspiring the very name of the hotel. As you wander around the jungle lined paths you might also encounter a donkey.

Golden Rock
Vervant Green monkeys play in the trees. By Donna Richardson

As you explore the lush surroundings, keep your eyes peeled for the playful green vervet monkeys swinging through the trees and the dazzling hummingbirds flitting about, their iridescent feathers glinting in the sunlight. Among the vibrant wildlife, you may also spot the striking Purple-throated Carib, the cheerful Bananaquit, the charming Bullfinch, the vigilant Kestrel, and the subtle yet graceful Zenaida Dove, along with various small amphibians and reptiles that call this habitat home, including the intriguing servant monkey.As you relax with a refreshing glass of Golden Rock’s renowned Rum Punch, the tropical flavours dance on your palate, further enhancing your blissful connection to nature. The gentle sparrows, so accustomed to human presence, will approach with unreserved curiosity, allowing you the delightful experience of having them eat right from your hands. This serene interaction with wildlife creates a truly enchanting moment, inviting you to surrender your senses entirely to the beauty around you.

Tranquilty abounds at sunrise and sunset when the air is filled with birdsong

Wellness

Golden Rock Inn is a place to relax and enjoy the natural health benefits associated with immersion in nature, offering the chance to reset, which is a prime reason guests choose this property. With one view of the peak and the other of the Atlantic Ocean, it’s a unique setting. The hotel can arrange poolside yoga, as well as excursions to explore the island’s natural beauty or you can shelter inside as the birds sing you a sweet soothing lullaby. In fact, I spent a whole afternoon gazing out of this window and my favourite time of the day was dusk when the tree frogs and birds joined in a sweet chorus and the lights illuminated the sweet frangipagni laced paths.

A room with a view

Accomodation

Golden Rock Inn is a truly remarkable destination that many consider a once-in-a-lifetime find. This enchanting property has its roots as a sugar estate that dates back to the early 1800s, showcasing beautiful original stone walls that speak to its rich history. The interior, however, has undergone a stunning transformation, thanks to the creative vision of Helen Marden, a talented New York artist who now owns the estate. Helen, along with her late husband, Brice, envisioned the inn as a serene sanctuary where artists, writers, and other creative individuals could escape the distractions of everyday life. They aimed to create a space that would offer complete privacy, allowing guests to fully immerse themselves in their creative pursuits. The bohemian style of the inn reflects this artistic spirit, featuring eclectic design elements and carefully curated decor meant to inspire and uplift. Golden Rock Inn is not just a place to stay; it is an invitation to unplug, unwind, and embrace the beauty of creativity in a tranquil setting.

Inside the lounge adjacent to the bar – art and furniture reflective of the Marden’s style

In the communal area of the main building, clad in volcanic stone, you’ll discover a blend of colourful modern art, vibrant throws, and contemporary furniture, with souvenirs from Helen and Brice’s travels scattered throughout the space. The sugar mill refinery tower rises dramatically from the jungle, resembling something out of a fairy tale. It serves as an incredible honeymoon suite. This Sugar Mill features two bedrooms: one with a king-size bed and another with two twin beds, making it ideal for families. Spanning 630 square feet, it includes living space and a charming courtyard and garden that overlooks both the mountain and the ocean.

The former refinery tower is concealed, making for a great honeymoon spot

The sugar mill refinery tower rises out of the jungle like something out of a fairy tale. It makes for an incredible honeymoon suite. The Sugar Mill has two bedrooms, one double and one with two single beds as well as living space. There is a courtyard and garden which overlooks the mountain and the ocean. Sprawling across 630sqft it has two floors. There is one room with one king-size bed and another with two twin beds making it perfect for families.

There’s also a sitting area and a terrace to enjoy the views of Windward Beach while sipping a Caribbean rum on ice. Design accents include bright red shutters which strike harmoniously against the antique stone walls. King-sized beds can be found in the romantic Paradise Cottage, designed in the typical Caribbean style with a large terrace that invites the outside in.

This was my home for the week.

Stepping down from this refinery is a cluster of brightly painted cottages that reflect the heritage of the estate. Wonderful fig trees surround Paradise Cottage, and the terrace offers a view through the garden to the sea beyond.  A gorgeous hardwood floor runs throughout the 400 sqft property. The bedroom has a king-size bed and a living area with a chaise lounge and desk. The bathroom features a shower and a bath, as well as Le Labo bath amenities.  Dar Cottage is a free-standing cut stone cottage with a queen bed, which is approximately 300 sq. ft. Throughout, you will find West Indian style furnishings and a private bath, ceiling fans, and king or queen beds. The terrace has sweeping views of the award-winning gardens and Mount Nevis.  

The cottages share a communal pool which is secluded by surrounding foilage

Additionally, eight hillside rooms command stunning views of the ocean, mountains, gardens, or pools.  These include three duplex cottages: Scarborough, Mt Pleasant, and Morningstar, and two freestanding properties: Coco Walk cottage and Winward cottage. They all feature a king bed or two single beds. Approximately 300 sq. ft., these rooms feature a private terrace, each with its own porch overlooking the ocean and the islands of Montserrat and Antigua. The Garden Room is a stunning West Indies-style cottage with a queen-size bed, a bathroom, and a porch. All of these rooms are decorated with amazing colours and textiles, each one reflecting the liveliness of Caribbean heritage and the original plantation structure while injecting the artist’s own artistic style. You can feel the exuberance of each room, yet it is also minimalist.

Activities


You can be as active as you like, with many activities to get you moving on the island. Book a thrilling off-road journey in a Funky Monkey all-terrain vehicle (ATV) or take a hike through the rainforest to reach the summit of Nevis Peak. Down on the beach, there’s horse riding or even to swim the channel between Nevis and St Kitts. And for some leisure time, why not head down to Sunshine’s Beach and Grill for a killer bee or a cold beer on the beach, and return to the 11-bedroom boutique hotel for some R and R.

Weddings

This is a stylish retreat that makes the perfect backdrop for romance and destination weddings. The hotel takes care of the logistics, including transportation, flowers, cake, venue, and decorations, weaving in the most romantic Caribbean wedding traditions.c The beauty of Golden Rock and its gardens makes for an ideal venue to celebrate your special day. If couples choose to, they can rent the entire property for their special day and explore the 100-acre grounds. A destination wedding allows events to unfold over a week, so the event is not just over in a day.  Choosing Nevis is romantic, and the island makes for a popular honeymoon destination.

Many lovebirds choose to get married in the pavilion designed by Edward Tuttle with privacy ensured by the surrounding tropical greenery, offering the best views of majestic Mount Nevis and Windward Beach below.

Golden Rock
Golden Rock Nevis, by Donna Richardson

After the wedding, Nevis itself is an exciting place to honeymoon, with an emphasis on both relaxation and adventure. Thrill-seeking couples can spend their first days as newlyweds hiking through lush rainforest and geothermal fields to the hot springs where they can soak in its healing mineral waters surrounded by nature.

Food and drink

The Rocks, which is mentioned in the Michelin Guide, is one of Nevis’ best-kept secrets, visited by celebrities and locals alike. The head chef James Eaton worked at the Four Seasons before joining Golden Rock and his menu already offers a range of exciting gourmet choices to suit all guests’ paletes. Every year, Tripadvisor celebrates restaurants that consistently deliver amazing experiences with a Travelers’ Choice Award and a mention in the top 10 per cent of restaurants worldwide.

Breakfasts here have earned a legendary reputation for the wide variety of options available to guests. Select Golden Rock Benedict, poached eggs, English muffin or Canadian ham, sautéed spinach and Creole hollandaise. Try some local smoked wahoo for something different, or a Nevisian-style omelette with sautéed onions, mixed local peppers, tomatoes, fresh herbs, and cheddar cheese for vegetarians, or a gluten-free egg white frittata with baby spinach and roasted peppers. The menu also includes vegan options, such as the chickpea omelette with avocado, corn, onion, tomato, herbs, and crispy kale.

Alternatively, there is also the oat and banana pancake with fresh berries and pure maple syrup. Dishes are served with pineapple, cranberry, apple juice or orange juice and loaded with local fruits. You can also choose ham, sausage, or apple-smoked bacon, breakfast potatoes and bread.

Those with smaller appetites can enjoy the Rocks breakfast parfait with homemade granola, mixed berries and Greek yogurt. There’s a breakfast bread basket with assorted homemade bread and pastries, butter and homemade jams or even a bowl of house-made granola with yogurt or milk. You can also choose two eggs, bacon and sausage with white toast. Coffee and tea are included.

Little birds will join you for breakfast

Healthy options include tasty Caesar salads, Caprese salad, fresh garden tomato, buffalo mozzarella basil pesto, balsamic reduction, house garden salad, mixed local greens with sliced radishes, tomatoes and house vinaigrette, crispy risotto cake, and local spinach can also enjoy sheep milk feta, avocado and garden salad. Guests can also enjoy the tasty Caesar and Caprese salads, fresh garden tomato, buffalo mozzarella basil pesto, balsamic reduction, house garden salad, mixed local greens with sliced radishes, tomatoes and the house vinaigrette, crispy risotto cake as well as local spinach.

Meanwhile, the West Indian French toast with homemade bread, maple syrup, berry compote and coconut compote is also delicious. Those with a sweet tooth will find Belgian Waffles with berry compote, crème Chantilly and pure maple syrup.

A kingfisher may join you for breakfast

Situated on the wild Atlantic coast, Golden Rock, Nevis is renowned for its seafood, which is selected by local fishermen. Whether you choose a local chunky conch chowder, the famous lobster salad, or locally caught fish of the day served with West Indian creole sauce, rice and beans, and fresh vegetables, you won’t be disappointed. Enjoy delectable shrimp, seared sesame tuna, coconut-crusted shrimp, and crab cake. Lobster is a speciality here, and the chef finds many inventive ways to cook this delicacy, including grilled Caribbean Spiny Lobster Tail, lobster linguine with fresh tomato, garlic, and parmesan, and lobster hash with poached egg, potatoes, onions, peppers, parsley, and cilantro. The grilled local snapper with saffron and lemon beurre blanc is also wonderful, and the green curry shrimp with coconut and basil served with coconut rice and fried sweet plantain is a delight to the taste buds.

Meat lovers can sink their teeth into a beef tenderloin with peppercorn sauce, sautéed mushrooms, asparagus, and mashed potato or even a pan-seared rack of lamb with rosemary baby potato and cauliflower puree. Then there is a t-bone steak with truffle-potato, assorted vegetables, and red-wine jus. You’ll also want to try Helen’s Moroccan Chicken, the owner’s renowned recipe with green cracked olives, house-preserved lemon, and couscous. You’ll also want to check out the local Mahi Mahi with Chimichurri sauce, rice, and beans.

Al in all, a visit to Golden Rock is like no other, you’ll arrive a stranger and soon become a friend, staying here is a special experience and many people visit time and time again, it is the Caribbean’s best kept secret.

Getting out and about

When you step outside the resort, there’s a world to explore. Head to Pinney’s Beach and have a beer on the beach at one of the shacks and work your way down to Sunshine’s Bar and Grill for the famous Killer Bee rum punch.

Sunshine, the bar owner, originally sold beers and chicken but now serves this potent drink made with island rum, bitters, and a secret ingredient. There’s a saying: one Killer Bee is enough—maybe even two—but any more might get you into trouble.

This bustling spot has attracted famous visitors like Beyoncé, Jay-Z, Michael Douglas, and the Prince and Princess of Wales, who first came here with their late mother, Diana. The atmosphere is lively, and as you move down the beach, you’ll find other bars perfect for watching the sunset. Enjoying reggae while sipping a cool beer as the waves break over the Caribbean Sea is a truly heavenly experience. Charlestown, the capital of Nevis, is home to the Alexander Hamilton Museum, located at the birthplace of the man who inspired the hit West End musical.

Fly directly from Gatwick to Robert Bradshaw International Airport. It is a 20-minute drive to Reggae Beach, where you can take a speedboat to Nevis. The hotel is a short journey from Oualie Beach. For days out you can visit the heritage village, Charlestown or the beach.

Donna Richardson received a flight, accommodation, and excursions and stayed for four days.

Arriving at The Golden Rock Inn Nevis, and ready to explore the lush grounds

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